Traditional balsamic vinegar is not a product of Parma,
but from bordering Reggio Emilia, of which, however,
some areas back in the day, of Dukedom of Parma,
Piacenza and Guastalla played a part. Having the
traditional balsamic vinegar of thousand-year old origin,
written testimonies date back to 1046, when Emperor of
Germany Enrico III requested it since it “aveva udito
farsi colà perfettissimo”, one deduces that it was
produced even back in the day and territory of the Parma
Dukedom; with this justification, but above all because
it is about an exceptional product able to perfect and
bring out the flavors of dishes and that it also goes
well with Parmigiano-Reggiano, it was listed in Parma
Gourmet.
Balsamic vinegar is spoken of as a treasure, kept secret
until just a few years ago, and which has finally become
available on the market.
The history
(in detail)
To certify the quality
of this vinegar, during the 1980s the Traditional
Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia was given the D.O.C.
label and production, tutelage and inspection modes were
standardized. Regulations require that Traditional
Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia, considered an
alimentary condiment, be extracted "from must cooked by
fire coming directly from the pressing of grapes
traditionally cultivated in the Reggio Emilia province".
The rights and
inspection organization is an Association of producers,
which works on behalf of its associates, guaranteeing
the quality of the vinegar through its own
Technical-Scientific Committee and a Taste Commission.
The Committee has as its main job the verification that
the product on the market has suitable characteristics.
How it is produced
The Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia is
obtained simply by fermenting the sugar and acid of the
cooked must. But the secret and the "wisdom" of Reggiano
Balsamic are in the successive excellent again that goes
on inside a set of barrels of different woods for long
periods of time, never less than 12 years. The
refinement of a bouquet that becomes ever intense,
delicate and pleasing to the nose and taste, is the most
complex and delicate phase, and it is here that a
vinegar maestro's experience becomes essential. While
the process of acidification for common vinegar is
fomented with wine, for producing the esteemed Reggio
Emilia ABT the process is fomented with cooked must. For
classic tradition, the production takes place in wooden
casks arranged in sets, the number of which must never
be less than three. The three phases of vinegar
production are the alcohol fermentation, the acid
oxidation and the aging. Casks made of oak, chestnut,
mulberry, cherry, ash, and wormwood are prevalently used,
each one yielding a particular aroma to the vinegar,
rendering it unique.
The three types of PDO vinegar
The first type, the "bollino Aragosta", is known
more than anything for being tart, with a volatile acid
sensation more pronounced and less sweet. Thanks to its
slight, delicate fragrance and good acidity can enrich
carpacci (thinly sliced rare meats), pinsimoni, and
salads; it can be used to flavor at the end of cooking
crustaceans, lamb, chicken breast and rare red meats. It
is also good for cooking wild game and poultry.
The "Argento" (silver) has some
different characteristics, because it is further refined.
It is better used fresh, less for cooking, resulting in
a softer, sweeter taste. Its character is preferred for
first courses, soufflés, risottos, sauces, light cooking.
It has a more intense aroma, leaning towards sweet, rich
and covering the acidity. Its excellent when used fresh
in mayonnaise, and in sauces for stews or fish, in
risottos with vegetables or with scampi, in rich and
noble first courses, such as beef filet or goose liver.
The volatile acidity is masked here by the here by the
fissa, remains a sweet and complex of taste sensation,
with flavors and aftertastes to appreciate.
The "Oro" (gold) is used not for seasoning, but
exclusively for the end of the meal. It is an
extraordinary and complex product, rich in aromas and
harmony of sweet and tart traces, tempting and
persistent. It is suited for important cheeses,
flavorful and spicy, for fruit salads of berries,
strawberries or cherries, for pastry creams or ice
creams, for cakes and strudel, but above all a real
elixir to be sipped from a spoon or small glass at the
end of the meal. A cooking
commandment always valid and for all types: avoid over
cooking: the vinegar must be heated for only a few
seconds, almost not at all, in order to avoid losing the
aroma refined over such a long time.
How it is conserved
Given its long aging process, balsamic vinegar is not
subject to alteration risks during its storage. It is to
be stored in a glass container, being ever careful to
simply close it well and keep it away from substances
emanating particular aromas.
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